During my two-month stay in Cusco, it emerged as a cherished highlight and a crucial base of operations. Perched high in the Andes at about 3,400 meters (11,200 feet), it's a city that commands respect, not just for its altitude but for its deep-rooted history. It's no wonder Cusco is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site; its intricate stone streets and ruins are a testament to its Incan and colonial legacy and a precursor to the wonders of Machu Picchu.
My Acclimatization Guide
Ease into altitude. Even as an avid traveler, I learned that acclimatization spares no one. Dedicate your initial days to rest, and don't rush the process. Your body will thank you.
Hydrate generously. My routine involved sipping water continuously throughout the day, complemented by the local coca tea, which became a soothing ritual.
Nutrition matters. Simple, hearty meals sustained me. I avoided alcohol, to alleviate altitude sickness.
Oxygen and healthcare. Many accommodations in Cusco offer oxygen or can advise on where to find altitude sickness remedies. Don't hesitate to use them if you're feeling the effects of the thin air.
Respect your limits. Amidst my eagerness to explore, I learned to heed the subtle warnings of my body. Make sure to seek professional healthcare if your symptoms intensify.
Cusco's importance extends well beyond its elevation; it is a testament to human ingenuity and cultural resilience. From its winding, cobblestone streets to the sprawling ruins of Saksaywaman that stand as sentinels of history, every corner of Cusco offers a story. My time there was not just a visit; it was a profound educational journey through the layers of time preserved in the very stones of the city. As you adapt to the altitude, you'll find Cusco's charm impossible to resist. Here are some must-see attractions to gently explore during your acclimatization period.
Must-See Attractions in Cusco
1. Plaza de Armas
The Plaza de Armas in Cusco is more than a city square. It is where past and present meet, full of the sights, sounds, and smells of Andean culture. This historic plaza, framed by imposing colonial structures and the stunning backdrop of the Andes, is where I spent countless hours absorbing the city's vibrant atmosphere.
Plaza de Armas revealed itself as a living museum. The square is flanked by two iconic churches: the Cusco Cathedral on one side and the Church of the Society of Jesus (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús) on the other. Both are examples of Spanish colonial architecture, adorned with intricate facades and opulent interiors that dazzle with gold leaf, carved wood, and religious art, a stark reminder of the Spanish conquest over the Inca.
Day and night, the plaza is a stage for artisans selling colorful textiles and vendors. At night, the Plaza de Armas transforms as the stone buildings and churches are illuminated, casting a warm glow that enhances the romance of the square.
2. Qorikancha
Qorikancha, which translates to "Golden Courtyard" in Quechua, was considered the center of the Inca world. The temple complex was dedicated to the most significant deities in the Inca pantheon, especially Inti, the Sun God. Known as the Temple of the Sun, it was once the most sacred shrine in the Inca Empire. Revered as a symbol of the Inca's connection to the sun god Inti, the temple's walls were once covered in sheets of solid gold, illustrating the empire's wealth and craftsmanship. During the Spanish conquest, the temple was looted, and its gold and silver treasures were melted down as part of the spoils of war.
What makes Qorikancha particularly fascinating for first-time visitors is its layering of cultures. Upon their conquest, the Spanish were determined to impose their dominance. Hence, they built the Convent of Santo Domingo directly atop the temple's foundations, integrating the Inca stonework into the structure of the convent. This juxtaposition of Inca and Spanish architecture serves as a powerful visual metaphor for the cultural history of Peru, a palimpsest of Incan ingenuity and the imposition of colonial rule.
Qorikancha also served as an astronomical observatory. The temple walls' placement of specific windows, niches, and doorways was aligned with the solstices and equinoxes, underscoring astronomy's importance in Inca religion and daily life.
For history buffs and curious travelers alike, Qorikancha is a complex symbol of the clash and coexistence of different worlds. It's a place where one can ponder the opulence of the Inca's golden shrine, consider the destructive forces of conquest, and appreciate the architectural dialogue between two distinct epochs. Qorikancha is a testament to the region's complex history and a must-visit for those wanting to understand the historical layers that make up contemporary Cusco.
3. Twelve-Angled Stone
Nestled within the historic walls of Cusco's Hatunrumiyoc Street, the Twelve-Angled Stone stands as a testament to Incan architectural prowess. Crafted with an accuracy so exact that not a sliver of paper could pass between its joins, this stone exemplifies the Incas' extraordinary capability to carve stone without metal tools. Instead, they utilized harder stones and an intrinsic understanding of their materials, demonstrating an advanced knowledge in stonework and geometry that continues to captivate engineers and historians alike.
More than a mere point of interest, this stone formed part of the boundary of an Incan ruler's palace and today represents a crucial element in the grand architectural narrative of Cusco's Incan history. Its twelve impeccably fashioned angles are aesthetically pleasing and functional, designed ingeniously to endure the seismic tremors that frequently rattle the region. This foresight in design is still lauded by modern engineers and seismologists, reflecting a sophistication in construction that has withstood the relentless passage of time and the tremors that have rocked the city over centuries.
Upon closer examination, the stone's true complexity is revealed. Each angle interlocks, contributing to a 'living' wall capable of flexing during seismic activity, a feature that has assured its longevity while modern structures have succumbed. This resilience links to an ancient era, proudly echoing the enduring legacy of the Incan architectural ingenuity.
For the residents of Cusco and the wider Peruvian community, the Twelve-Angled Stone is more than just an architectural wonder; it is an emblem of the tenacity and sophistication of their Incan forebears, a focal point of national pride, and a poignant reminder of a bygone epoch when the Inca Empire was a beacon of advancement in the ancient world.
4. Saksaywaman
Just outside the city, this ceremonial complex showcases the scale of Incan engineering. Saksaywaman (often spelled Sacsayhuamán) is an awe-inspiring archaeological site that demonstrates the architectural genius of the Incas on a grand scale. Situated on a steep hill overlooking Cusco, the complex is considered a fortress and a ceremonial center. However, its precise function remains a topic of scholarly debate, a mystery that adds to its allure for visitors.
When I first approached Saksaywaman, the sheer size of the stone blocks used in the construction was almost inconceivable. Some of these megaliths weigh several tons, yet they are fitted together with such precision that, much like the Twelve-Angled Stone, no mortar was needed. This level of construction is a marvel of pre-Columbian architecture and serves as a humbling reminder of the capabilities of ancient civilizations.
The site's strategic vantage point provides sweeping views of Cusco, which once served as a tactical advantage. Still, it now offers visitors stunning panoramic vistas of the city and the lush countryside. The vast, open plaza area within Saksaywaman is where the Incas likely gathered for ceremonies. During the solstices, the way the light plays upon the structures is a sight to behold, a testament to their celestial alignments and understanding of astronomy.
5. San Blas Neighborhood
A stroll through San Blas is a must for a first-time visitor. It offers a more intimate look at Cusco's culture, an escape from the more tourist-heavy areas, and a chance to interact with local artisans and taste local flavors. This neighborhood encapsulates the spirit of Cusco: its creativity, hospitality, and ability to leave a lasting impression on those who wander its storied streets. Wander through cobbled streets with artisan workshops and bohemian cafes. The San Blas neighborhood, often referred to as the Barrio de los Artesanos (Artisans' Quarter), is Cusco's bohemian heart, a delightful district that climbs up from the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas through narrow, winding cobblestone streets. As I ascended its inclines during my stay, the neighborhood revealed its charms slowly, with every turn offering something new to discover.
The area has a distinctly artistic vibe, with studios and workshops showcasing an eclectic array of handcrafted goods, from intricate silver jewelry and vibrant textiles to bespoke pottery and paintings inspired by Andean culture. Each storefront and stall is a cornucopia of local craftsmanship, allowing visitors not only to purchase unique souvenirs but to see artists at work, employing techniques passed down through generations.
San Blas is not just a destination for art enthusiasts. It's also a culinary haven, featuring a range of bohemian cafes and quaint restaurants tucked away in cozy corners or perched on balconies with impressive views. The gastronomic offerings are a fusion of traditional Andean ingredients and contemporary culinary trends, providing an experience that is both authentically Cusco and refreshingly innovative.
The San Blas View Point (Mirador de San Blas), also known as the Mirador de Tococachi, is the neighborhood's jewel. After navigating the steep streets, visitors are rewarded with an expansive view of Cusco's terracotta rooftops, church spires, and the lush surrounding hills. The best time to visit is late afternoon when the sun bathes the city in golden hues. It's a place for quiet reflection or sharing a moment with loved ones, all against the city's stunning panorama.
At night, San Blas doesn't lose its charm; it transforms. The street lamps cast a soft glow on the stones, the bars and cafes fill with the murmur of conversations, and live music often spills out onto the streets, inviting passersby to linger and enjoy the ambiance.
6. San Pedro Market
San Pedro Market stands at the heart of Cusco, offering an unfiltered look at Peruvian daily life. The air outside hums with commerce. Inside, the colors are vivid and the smells shift block by block, from ripe fruit at one end to the butchery at the other.
During my extensive stay in Cusco, the market became my go-to destination for connecting with the city's pulse. It is a cornerstone of community life, frequented by locals who weave through stalls for daily necessities. The assortment on display is a tribute to Peru's biodiversity, exotic produce native to the Andes nestles beside stalls of freshly butchered meats and a bounty of grains like quinoa, amaranth, and more, some of which find their roots in these highland soils.
The culinary offerings are a true highlight, promising an exploration of authentic Peruvian flavors. Morning visitors can indulge in juices squeezed from the freshest local fruits, chirimoya's creamy sweetness, lucuma's rich subtlety, or the tang of passionfruit. A bowl of warm quinoa porridge might comfort those needing a heartier start, while tamales, steaming with tradition, wrap your senses in their maize-enfolded warmth.
Come lunchtime, the array widens: plates of lomo saltado sizzle with homegrown flavors, aji de gallina offers a creamy spice-infused embrace, and ceviche, zesty with lime and the ocean's bounty, awaits seafood aficionados. For those eager to venture into traditional tastes, cuy presents itself in various local preparations, each a nod to Andean heritage.
The market isn't solely a culinary journey. It's also a place to discover regional crafts. Engage with vendors who often double as artisans, offering regional cheeses, olives, and bread samples. They might recount the origins of their fare, deepening your connection to the market's offerings.
Textile enthusiasts can marvel at the rich array of Andean crafts available here. The market brims with alpaca wool garments, hand-dyed fabrics, and a spectrum of souvenirs that embody Peruvian craftsmanship's intricate artistry.
San Pedro Market is not merely a destination; it's an immersive experience for all senses. To make the most of it, carry cash, haggle with a smile, and arrive hungry to embark on a true gastronomic and cultural voyage within this vibrant microcosm of Cusco.